Established pruning of an apple or pear bush

 Each winter continue to keep the centre of the tree open by removing branches growing into the centre, with a pruning saw. Lightly prune vigorous trees. Those that are making poor growth can be pruned harder. Cut out all diseased or dead wood.

If the tree is predominantly a spur bearer, tip back one-third of the new side shoots to 3-4 buds to encourage fruit buds and eventually spurs to develop along their length; leave shorter side shoots un pruned. On predominantly tip-bearing trees, remove any dense or crossing branches; any remaining sides hoots or new growth should be left un pruned to avoid removing potential fruits that form in the tips.

Remove some of the older branch framework to make way for new, younger shoots. Also cut away all water shoots growing directly from the trunk flush with the trunk.

Creating a standard

Standard and half-standard trees are essentially bushes but on taller stems so that the branches start at a different height. The pruning and training method is the same.

Plant care

Apples and pears are some of the easiest fruit trees to grow in temperate climates, although pears can suffer from frost damage in spring.

Weeding

Fruit trees grow better if they are kept free from competing weeds around the base of the tree. Hand weeding and hoeing are the most effective non- chemical method of controlling weeds, along with mulching around the trunk. Avoid strimming near the base of trees because it can rip the bark and in extreme cases kill the tree — in the commercial world strimmers are known as mechanical rabbits because of the damage they can cause. Weedkillers are also effective methods of weed control provided they are used safely.

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